Elizabethan ramparts, listed buildings and good connections: Max Davidson heralds a friendly and accessible border town
Its history. Fought over for centuries, Berwick-upon-Tweed ended up on the English side of the border but, as the town centre is north of the Tweed, the line dividing England and Scotland, many locals think of themselves as Scottish. You hear everything from broad Geordie to lowland Scots spoken on the streets, while Berwick Rangers plays in the Scottish, not the English, football league. “We’re Borderers,” as one native puts it. “Messed-up mongrels and happy that way.”
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